Tom Maresca has been writing about wine for 40 years. He is the author of two wine books, Mastering Wine (which won the first-ever Clicquot Prize for Wine Book of the Year) and The Right Wine. He has been a frequent contributor to Decanter and to Quarterly Review of Wines. He is also the co-author, with his wife, Diane Darrow, of two major books on Italian food, wine, and dining: La Tavola Italiana and The Seasons of the Italian Kitchen; as well as a mini ecookbook (with wine recommendations), Not The Same Old Spaghetti Sauce. Now retired, he was a professor of English at Stony Brook University and has published four books on academic subjects.
Tom Maresca
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Recent Posts
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Selected Magazine Articles
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Subjects
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Tom's Wine Line 
Professor Maresca: I was one of your students beginning in 1976 in the doctoral program at SUNY Stony Brook. I just came across this web site, and started reminiscing about what a terrific English Department that was. I also remembered how deficient we fledgling graduate students were in the Classics, a state of our ignorance that became evident in your introductory class on Virgil. Thanks for putting up with us, and pulling us toward the light!
My apologies for taking so long to reply to your very complimentary comment. I’ve been away from my desk for a few days and am just now catching up. You’ve reminded me of how much I enjoyed teaching that course: I do hope some of my pleasure in those works came through to you long-suffering grad students.
Hi Tom, new to your blog. Really enjoying it–your love of wine is infectious.Regarding your most recent post on Hermitage and the opening of the 2001–you made an oblique reference to your storage being…iffy? I was curious what you meant. I’ve recently created a storage space in my basement, all passive (i.e. no electricity–just the magic of earth-walls). I’m trying to figure out how long I can hold wines–hoping I can for 5+ years. Thanks.
Dear Bruce: I’m glad you’re enjoying my blog. As to your question about storage: I don’t know what wines you want to cellar or where you live, but if you’re serious about a below ground, earth-walled cellar, where the temperature never falls below freezing in winter and remains cool in summer, you should be able to store most of the kinds of wines most people want for well upwards of five years. As long as the temperature doesn’t go to extremes and the variations in it aren’t extreme or sudden, most wines should very happily mature properly. Good luck and happy sipping!
Thanks Tom!
Tom and Diane:
Susan and I have just finished a celebrous lunch, since today is our 40th wedding anniversary, and we are remembering fondly the dinner you prepared for us as a wedding present on Feb. 7, 1981, and then wrote up in a column for Newsday. Roasted squab, peas and Pol Roger, and a simple torte, were that evening’s menu.
Tim
Nice memories, Tim. Hope you and Susan stay healthy through all this Covid siege.
Tom, loved your book Mastering Wine. Of course the strength of the book is also the weakness – it’s so contemporaneous. I know there’s more to it than that, but….. Haven’t fully searched your site, but are there any updates to it? I know not in actual book form, but in terms of wine substitutions?
Glad you liked the book, Jeff, but it’s now so far out of date that substitutions are impossible. And the wine world has changed so dramatically since the original publication that, even if I had the energy, a revision would be impossible. I’d have to start over on a completely different book — and I can assure you, I’m not going to do that.
Tom,
Have you done anything on South Africa? Don’t see it on the links. I’d be interested.
Joe Haviland (prep)
No, I haven’t: I have absolutely zero expertise there.
Hi Tom,
I greatly enjoy your writing here–I recently picked up and read The Right Wine as well, which I also enjoyed immensely. What both have made me want to do is drink more old wine–I was wondering if you had any postscript to your recommendations in The Right Wine about what to age long term, especially given the vast increase in price of some of the great cellarable wines (which unfortunately may never be drunk by collectors at all…) I am also intrigued by the selection of 1960s and 1970s wines from the Piedmont available at Chambers Street Wines, but wondering if such bottles really need the context of younger older wines first to appreciate–unfortunately, I have drunk very few bottles of anything more than 15 years old at this point, but would like to start, and would like to do for the next few decades with pleasure.
Best,
Patrick
That is a huge question, especially when price is — as it always is — a factor as well. I would definitely look into Barbaresco, especially the cru wines from Produttori, and into some of the less famous Chateauneuf du Pape estates. Taurasi is still fairly priced, and some Sicilian wines are almost bargains — Benanti’s Etna wines, Palari, and a few others. I still revere some smaller Bordeaux estates — Brane Cantenac, Gloria, Pontet Canet (though its price has risen mightily). As for what such wines need to be appreciated: I’d say an attentive and receptive palate, which you seem to have, is the prime requisite. Taste everything you can, and go on with what impresses you most. And before I forget: I have great respect for Chambers Street’s stock and its staff’s knowledge. I don’t think they will steer you wrong.
As a former Stony Brooker, I certainly remember the people Hildegarde Browne mentions but can’t say that I’ve kept track of the people I knew then. I do remember you, Tom, and Diane fondly from those early 1970s times. I have kept in contact with Roy Peter Clark but have lost contact with everyone else.
I came across this wine blog sort of accidentally; “sort of” because I remembered from some reference of the past that you had written about wine, so went looking when I was tracking down one or another wine recently. I’m much more a beer geek than a wine aficionado, but like to read about wines that I buy or would like to buy.
About three weeks ago Judith and I visited some dear, old Setauket friends from those Stony Brook years. It was the first time we’ve been out there in decades. They took us on a tour of the campus. I recognized exactly none of it – not because my memory has failed; rather, the campus is huge and entirely altered. One thing I did recognize, though it was completed after I left, is the Bertrand Goldberg hospital building, having seen it in a few visits in the 1980s. I’m a docent at Chicago Architecture Foundation/Center, and on our tours we have a number of Goldberg buildings to talk about. But I digress.
I still value having been present at the birth of your book “Epic to Novel,” a book I happily mention and misquote to this day.
I hope that you and Diane are well.
Ed McDevitt
Hi, Ed. Great to hear from you after all these years. Diane and I remember you fondly, not only for your grand performances in Mighty Chaucer Art Players productions but also because you put us onto James Blish and several other fine Scifi writers, as well as the Aubrey/Maturin novels. We hope you are well and prospering.
I haven’t been on campus in quite a few years myself: I suspect I could get lost now. The whirligig of time brings in his revenges (I think that’s an accurate quote).
All best, Tom and Diane
Recently got a copy of your book, The Right Wine (a friend gave me gifted me a copy saying that despite its age of pubication, it was not much dated). Thoroughly enjoying itII
Curious to know if you still think your “risky generalization number 4000” that “most Italian wine have more acid than most of the wines of France or the United States” is accurate still as generalizations go.
Ditto for #4001 that “French and Italian wines have contrasting characters and complementary strengths and weaknesses”. Do you think any of this has much changed, in general terms, since you wrote those words in the early 1990s?
Interesting questions. I think that, if anything, those tendencies have intensified. There are exceptions, of course, but Italian wines usually have much more acidity than California wines and modestly more than French. Both Italian and French wines seem to me more food-friendly than California wines, though there are vast differences between them in terms of grape varieties, terroir, and wine-making styles. To explain all that in any detail would require writing another book, and at my age I’m not about to do that.
Dear Sir,
I was recently gifted with a bottle of Melini, Granaio, Chianti Classico 2014 DAL 1705. Will you kindly teach me if this is a long-keeping wine? My daughter just returned from Italy and said this vintner was one of her favorites.
Kind regards,
Trina
It’s an excellent wine, but unless it says Riserva on the label, it’s not a long-keeping one. I would normally drink a Chianti Classico at about five years of age, give or take a year, but you could open this anytime you felt so moved.
I was just looking at different things online and your name popped into my head and that’s how I found you. I still keep in touch with Erwin Wong, Ed Hagan, Norm Wallis and Mr. Rogers passed away about 8 years ago. His daughter wrote to me at Christmas. That’s how I keep in touch with all of them and them with me through Christmas cards. We live in Florida since 1978.
That’s great. Please pass on my regards to all.
Hello, Tom. I don’t know if you remember me, but I was one of the secretary’s in the English Department back in the early 70’s till 1978. I worked with Mrs. Grimm, Rose Williams and Mary Bruno. I still keep in touch with some of the Graduate students and Professors from back then. Your books sounds interesting.
Hildegard Browne
Hi, Hildegard. I do indeed remember you. It’s nice to hear from you: There aren’t too many of us still around from those days at Stony Brook. Have you become interested in wine, or did you find my blog by chance?
Sir,
what a wonderful blog!
For an Italian wine lover, who’s too often wary of the way American drinkers and critics misunderstand the wine I most appreciate, finding out such a beatiful mix of experience, knowledge and sensibility is astonishing.
Too bad, I’ve just discovered and only by chance.
On the plus side, there’s a lot of material I have still to read.
Thanks.
Thank you, Marco. I hope I can continue to be useful and pleasurable for you.
Don’t know where I’ve been that I’ve just discovered your blog. I write a blog as well on Italian wine, but don’t have nearly quite the expertise you do and look forward to learning more.
Welcome to the guild.
Hi Tom,
You don’t appear to have changed a bit. My wife and I enjoy your books and now your blog. We’re going to Rome for the first time at the end of the month (after having been to northern Italy a couple of times) and wonder if you have any suggestions for dining and imbibing.
Best wishes, and my best to Diane.
Frank Parks (setting to retire in a couple of years after 38 years in the academic saddle, believe it or not, and a grandfather of three; how time goes by)
Hi, Frank. Great to hear from you after all this time. You certainly bring back memories of early days at Stony Brook — and your having three grandchildren makes me realize how many years back those are! Now that I have your email address, I’ll send you some recommendations for Rome by that route.
Wow! There you are, Tom, and you still have the moustache! I remember the heavenly meals you and Diane used to serve to the SUNY graduate students who were lucky enough to get invited. We appreciated that so much.
Lynne Mortimer Koontz
Hey, Lynne! Nice to hear from you. Yes, I still have the moustache, though it’s no longer black. Love your email address. Are you still horseback riding? Diane says hello also.
Just stumbled upon your blog looking for commentary on on Vallena Boca.I enjoy your style and am impressed by your background. I have spent eight years as a winegrower in California, took many courses at UC Davis and read too many wine books. However the finest of them, in my view, is “I drink therefore I am” (a philosopher’s guide to wine) by Roger Scruton. If you are familiar with this book I would be interested in your view of it.
Regards
Rick Heimann
Hi Rick. Scruton’s book is on my to-be-read list. I had been postponing reading it because I was somewhat put off by some British reviewers, who made it sound as if it was a right-wing political diatribe (British academic politics can be very weird: I should have known that). My interest in the book was rekindled — in a very interesting coincidence, given your interest in Vallana Boca — by Marina Fogarty, one of the siblings now running Vallana, who in her time free from the winery is studying for a PhD in philosophy. Interesting people make interesting wine: that should be a wine world axiom. Anyhow: lovely people, great wines, but I haven’t yet gotten to Scruton. Your comment may be the final push I need. Thanks.
Hi Tom
I stumbled across your blog in a typically Internet-searching sort of way while I was researching grape varieties in the Campania region. I started reading and soon became engrossed. I felt something wasn’t quite right, and I soon realised I was very much enjoying the read for its own sake. Then it dawned on me of course: your blog is extraordinarily well written and is a pleasure to read. This is not what you expect from your average blog.
Then when I came to the ‘About Tom’ page and saw ‘Professor of English’ it all made sense. If only there wasn’t !more quality writing out there….
Thanks!
Geoff
And thank you, Geoff, for the kind words: much appreciated.
Hello. Great greetings from Poland. Your blog is very interesting and I found it lookin’ for any lore about barolo. The map of Barolo, thats what I need
Hi Jacek. There’s a search box on my site – scroll down to the bottom of the right-hand column to find it – and just type in “Barolo maps.” You’ll get links to five relevant articles.
Hi Tom,
Found your blog, and am now following it. In the meanwhile have been busy setting up my own blog. You may want to check it out at http://oleudsenwineblog.wordpress.com/.
Best regards
Ole
Hi, Ole. It was a pleasure meeting you in Puglia, and I am now following your blog also. I noted with considerable pleasure that we tend to agree about many of the wines we tasted there: it’s always re-assuring, when confronted with so many new wines, to have your judgment corroborated by someone whose palate you respect.
Hi Tom. Delighted to hear from you and to learn you also have a blog. I look forward to following it and appreciate the fact that you’ll be following mine. Un abbraccio, Burton
I’ve yet to read your wine book (shall do!) but will never forget how well, in your other life, you taught me to read a literary text! Ever grateful!
Hi Tom! My family, originally from Sorrento Italy, live in the NYC/NJ area and just love your books and blog! I currently live in Seattle, WA, but enjoy visiting home all the time. Have any East Coast wine recommendations? (maybe upstate ny?) Thank you for introducing us to the world of wine.
Regards!
Hi, Louis. We just might be relatives. My grandparents were from Sorrento also. About New York wine: I’m not so crazy about upstate, but I think there’s a lot of interesting stuff to try on Long Island. Take a look at this, for starters: https://ubriaco.wordpress.com/category/new-world/united-states/long-island/
Tom
Dear Tom. I was so pleasantly surprised to read your blog about your trip to Ecuador and how the wine I found for you was not bad at all. I thank you for mentioning Ecuador in your blog, our company and my name. I do have to mention that your bird numbers are wrong. Ecuador does not have 600 species of birds but 1,600. It does not matter, though. I just wanted to touch base and thank you so very much for mentioning Ecuador and its wine in your classy blog.
With much respect, Xavier
Hi Tom:
wonderful to see you in bloggerdom. Now I wont be the only silverback in here!
I’ll link you up on my wacky Eyetalian blog.
Cheers!
Hello Tom,
Just a quick note to tell you how much I enjoyed “The Right Wine” when I picked it up years ago. I was cooking in Paris and reading everything I could to better understand how to pair food and wine when I found it. Your approach made sense to me and it has become my go to suggestion when folks ask where to begin. I didn’t realize that you have a blog and have included you in my favorites.
Fyi, your link for “The Right Wine” goes to “Mastering Wine” on Amazon.
With my thanks,
Damien
I’m glad the book was useful to you, Damien. And my thanks for pointing out the wrong link. It’s fixed now.
Read your remarks in Westview about Barbera and the soil of Piedmont. In 1971 I drank a remarkable bottle of SIZZANO the label further read Denominazioe di Origine Controllata, Imbottigliato dal Produttore all’Origine, Cantina Sociale Di Sizzano E Ghemme, Sede e Stabilimento in Sizzano, Piemonte and in the upper right: selected by Gabriella. I subsequently heard that in a blind tasting at Sherry Lehman, Sam Arons (embarassingly) pronounced it the best among a field of wines many times the price. Please, where can I find its successors?
I wish I could tell you. You’re right: Sizzani is — or was — a wonderful, greatly underpriced wine. The denomination still exists (though I’m not sure the Cantina Sociale — that’s a co-operative winery — still does), but it has fallen off the radar in the past ten years, and I’m not at all sure it’s being imported right now. Your best bet would be to Google it, or try one of the wine search engines such as Wine Surf or Wine Zapp. Good luck!