This wine – 1999 Conterno Barolo from the Bussia cru – tasted like the love child of Nebbiolo and velvet.
One dinner guest, on first sip, rightly called it youthful – which it was; it was also vital, and complex, and deep, and it evolved kaleidoscopically in our glasses as we progressed from a rich main course to a pair of fine cheeses. But I am getting way ahead of myself.
I don’t keep many magnums, because we rarely have occasion for them. I’m a wine drinker, not a wine collector. But a recent convocation of our octogenarian Gang of Six seemed an appropriate moment for a fine magnum – especially since the dinner we were making for it was La Finanziera, a Piedmontese tour de force of mostly innards. (Diane has written about the dish on her blog.) On its home grounds of Italy’s Piedmont, the characteristic feature of La Finanziera is its inclusion of cockscombs, which the USDA will not allow us to buy. (Boos and hisses are appropriate here.)
We had originally conceived of this feast back in the depths of winter, but such is the mobility of our coevals that it took until early March to get all six of us together in New York at the same time. (I guess that’s a good sign, no?) For several days in advance, that big bottle of Barolo stood patiently – upright, to settle its sediment – on a very cool, shady windowsill, awaiting its moment.
Barolo fans will know that Poderi Aldo Conterno is one of the most prestigious of the whole panoply of Barolo vignerons. The three brothers now running the farm work 25 wonderful hectares in the heart of Monforte d’Alba. The hillside of Bussia ranks among the best vineyard sites in the entire Barolo zone – so my magnum came with an impressive provenance.
Barolo fans will also know that 1999 was one of the string of top-flight vintages with which Piedmont rang down the curtain on the 20th century. I had been saving it for an occasion that would show it at its best. Now it had its moment, alongside an opulent dish it had grown up with, and for palates that would appreciate both it and the food. I was really looking forward to this.
Conterno’s Bussia did not disappoint in the slightest. From those first sips, arresting in their freshness, to the vigor with which it matched a fine Stilton and a luscious soft-ripening Brebirousse, it offered peak experiences. Each sip was slightly different from the last, as the wine evolved in the carafe and glass and as the accompanying food called out different components in it. It was a palatal – the only word I can think of to describe it – kaleidoscope.
Large formats like magnums are marvelous for allowing wines to preserve their youthful vitality and at the same time giving them room to grow. I’ve known that for a long time – but it’s also been a long time since I experienced it. All I can finally say, in the most esoteric winespeak, is: What a treat! Good wine, good food, good friends. What a treat!
I don’t think I’ve ever read a love letter to a bottle of wine – or good friends and great food – quite like this. A wonderful companion piece to Diane’s blog and I loved every word of both of them.
Thank you, Vickie, lurking under Frank’s name.
The best way to enjoy an older treasured wine. With friends who can appreciate the specialness. Salut.
You are living proof that wine is good for the both body and soul. Pleasure definitely helps us to leave longer. Or so I hope.